There is much information available regarding riflescopes, which may be quite overwhelming when you’re not sure what to look for. It is important to choose a riflescope that is best suited for your needs. Such needs vary amongst everyone; the most common three are listed and explained below.
Battue is a form of hunting where beaters force animals into an area where they can be seen and shot. In battue, the hunted animals are on the run and the chance of shooting the animal in vital body part is a lot smaller than in a regular hunt. For battue, riflescopes with a smaller magnification are often used due to the fast reaction time of the hunter when seeing a moving target.
Compared to battue, standard hunting works on a one versus one basis between the hunter and his or her prey. This form of hunting is legal but heavily controlled.
Hunters often use a riflescope with a variable magnification. This is because the hunter approaches their target slowly and quietly, and therefore has enough time to adjust the riflescope to make an accurate shot. As hunters have more time to adjust their riflescopes, their targets are generally shot from a greater distance.
Shooting sports require the shooter to hit several targets at varying distances and heights in order to score as many points as possible. To participate in this type of shooting, you must be a member of an official shooting sport club. A variety of riflescopes are used for shooting sports depending on the rules and regulations of the game and the preferences of the shooter.
The reticle or crosshair consists of a vertical and horizontal line whereby the intersection of both of these lines form the middle of an image. This is used to pin point a target.
Thin crosshair lines are most suitable to aim at targets, which are clearly visible in it’s surrounding. These thin lines however, are more difficult to see when the background is ‘busy’ and complex, such as the forest. For this, thicker crosshair lines are generally used. Unfortunately, thicker crosshair lines lack the precision of the thin crosshair lines. To overcome this, a combination of thick and thin lines can be used. This variation is referred to as a duplex crosshair and are peripherally thick and centrally thin. The thick lines make it possible for the shooter to quickly find the center point of the crosshair, while the thin lines intersecting at the center of the crosshair is essential for accurate focus.
The wire cross (or crosshair reticle) is composed in its traditional form of a cross formed by a vertical and a horizontal line of which the point of intersection of the lines is at the center of the image and is an aid in aiming at the target.
Thin crosshair lines are best suited to aim accurately at targets which clearly mark the area. However, these fine lines are difficult to see when the background is more complex as for example in the forest. Thicker wire cross lines are more suitable for this purpose, but lack the precision of the thinner lines. A variant which combines the advantages of thin and thick lines is the so-called duplex wire cross. With duplex crosshair, the lines are thick peripheral and central thin. Through the thick lines the shooter is able to quickly find the central point of the crosshair, while the thin lines intersecting in the center of the crosshairs are for accurate aiming.
At reticles we distinguish three types of reticles; classic crosshairs, illuminated reticles and ballistic reticles.
The classical, non-illuminated reticle is versatile and accurate, and is made up of a thin horizontal and vertical lines that meet in the middle. This type of reticle is at his full ability when lighting conditions are good. During the twilight this type of crosshairs will not function properly, or it may fall away against the background of dense forest. If you hunt primarily in broad daylight or mild twilight, these classic crosshairs will be at his full capability.
The illuminated reticle can make the difference for you during difficult circumstances. They make it easier to get a good sight of the target during day or night. When the reticle has an extremely high level of intensity (extra bright), the corresponding reticle can also be used during the day. When the reticle does not have this designation, it is only suitable for dusk and / or night. For most of the illuminated cross-hairs applies the illuminated point or cross can be manually adjusted in terms of intensity. This allows to adjust the sight for any situation.
The ballistic reticle is ideal if you want to use the rifle scope also for shots at long range. The aiming points under the center of the cross will help you to calculate the distance of your targets location. You can also use these aiming points for shots at a further distances. This way you can easily compensate the decline of the bullet.
IR stands for Illuminated Reticle. For riflescopes with this option, it is possible to illuminate the reticle to make it easier to see in difficult light conditions.
Mil dots are dots or dashes to subdevide your crosshair once again. These Mil Dots are at a specific distance from each other, so when you "correct a ball", you correct over a angle of 1 milli radial. A angle of 1 mil on a distance L Een hoek van 1 mil over een afstand "L" corrensponds with a correction distance of: L x 0,001. This mean that correction your shot over the distance of "L" meter, matches L x 0,001 m correction.
Example:
A red dot is a system whereby a little red dot is visible in your gun sight. Different versions of the red dot are available: a thicker but small viewer or a version with a type of screen that you look through. The red dot simplifies the focus on your target as the red dot is used for aiming rather than the notch or barrel. The more expensive red dot models are parallax free meaning that when you look through your red dot from the wrong angle but your red dot is on the target, you will still shoot correctly. With the cheaper kind of red dot sights, you will need to make sure that you keep your eye aligned as much as possible with the red dot to shoot correctly.
Riflescopes with a zoom function have a variable magnification. On a low magnification you can use the riflescope to track down your target and then zoom in for more details. This is made possible by changing the distance between the lenses. Riflescopes with a variable magnification are not perfect for every situation because when using a very high magnification, the zoomed image can become much darker. Your field of view will become smaller as well.
These numbers represent the magnification and lens size. The first digit represents the magnification of the riflescope. This number indicates how much closer the object is seen through the riflescope in comparison to the naked eye. The second number shows the diameter size (in millimeters) of the objective lens and thus the amount of light that can come through the riflescope. If all other specifications of the riflescopes are equal, larger objective lenses mean a brighter and sharper image. If there is a "-" between the first and the second digit and a "X" between the second and third digit, for example 3-12x56, reference is made to the zoom of the riflescope. These riflescopes have a variable magnification.
When you use a rifle scope with a First Focal Plane, the reticle will get bigger when you zoom to a higher magnification, the reticle will become smaller when you zoom out.
AO is an abbreviation that stands for an adjustable objective, meaning the lens is adjustable. The focal point of the lens has the ability to be adjusted, which allows you to focus the scope on different distances. The larger the magnification, and the better the quality of the lenses, the more accurate your focus on a target will be. An adjustable objective can be used as a tool to determine the distance to a target and is referred to as range finding. When a scope does not automatically correct itself, the focus can be on both the reticle and the target, which is what the AO is used for.
The height adjustment is meant to coincide with the meeting point of the target and your crosshair. When you shoot a bullet horizontally from you weapon, the bullet falls immediately and becomes the prey of gravity: your bullet will descend. If you would not be able to correct your scope, you would need to aim above your target to hit it: the further you would be from the target, the more you would need to aim above it. It is much easier to have the target in the middle of your crosshair so the point of aiming would be the same as the point of impact. To correct this, a button for the vertical adjustment of the image has been added to your riflescope. Usually this involves the knob on the top of the riflescope, which can be adjusted with clicks from the perspective of the bullet. In other words, if your bullet falls below your target, you should turn the knob in an upward direction to make the bullet shoot higher and vice versa. Such adjustments are not expressed in degrees but expressed in a smaller unit of measurement called “Minutes of Angle” or “MOA”. One minute is the equivalent of 1/60th of a degree and one adjustment click on a riflescope is generally equivalent to 1/4th or 1/8th MOA, which is the same as 1/240th or 1/480th of a degree. Knowing this, it is possible to calculate the distance of impact for every adjustment made.
The following example aims to simplify the above outlined text.
A side wheel is used for accurate focusing of a scope and is usually fitted over the original focus knob. If you calibrate the side wheel in advance, you can estimate distances by focusing (range finding), and reading the corresponding distance on your side wheel. If the distance of the object is already known, the calibration can be done by highlighting the position of the side wheel, for example 5, 10, 12, 14m, etc. The large wheel allows you to rotate carefully and therefore focus with precision. Further, the distances associated with a set calibration are easily read and thus recorded to improve your range finding.
It is natural reflex for the human body to pull the weapon away immediately after shooting. As a bullet has not yet left the weapon after the shot, the slightest movement of your weapon will decrease the accuracy of your shot. It is important that you maintain your shooting stance after completing a shot. By looking through the riflescope you follow the impact of the bullet on your target and increase your chances of an accurate shot.
The field of view (FOV) refers to the width of the image you see as you are looking through the riflescope. Usually, this will be indicated as the width at a certain distance or in degrees. The wider the FOV, the easier it is to find your target. For example, a FOV of 9.8m at 100m indicates that image you see through the riflescope has a width of 9.8m. It is also possible for the FOV to be specified in degrees and this FOV can be referred to in two ways, actual field of view in degrees or subjective field of view in degrees. In order to compare the two, you multiply the actual FOV in degrees by 17.5 to attain the FOV over 1000m. If the given number is higher than 15, you get the subjective field of view. By dividing the subjective FOV by the magnification of the riflescope, you will reach the actual FOV in degrees. This number can then ben multiplied by 17.5 to achieve a FOV over 1000m.
The eye relief of a riflescope is the ideal distance between the eyepiece and human eye to obtain the full viewing angle. The exit pupil distance is related to the magnification. When the magnification is raised, the exit pupil distance becomes smaller. People who wear glasses need to pay special attention to this matter when buying a riflescope as glasses increase the distance between the eyepiece and the human eyes.
Start by blowing away all dust and filth. Next, use a lint-free cloth, such as a camera lens cloth and lens cleaner or alcohol to clean. The outside of the lenses You can use warm water and a mild detergent to clean the metal, rubber or plastic. The coatings are very sensitive to scratches here so you should be extra careful when cleaning your binocular. Also read the user manual before you start.
You should never do that! In most cases it is not necessary to take the riflescope apart. Many riflescopes are filled with nitrogen so the optics will not get foggy. If you believe that the inside needs to be cleaned, please contact the manufacturer or dealer.